Edelrid OHM II
OHM II
The second generation of Edelrid's innovative and successful OHM is easier to use than ever thanks to a number of updates:
The assisted-braking resistor for increasing the braking effect when climbing in rope teams with major weight differences has a swivel joint that improves the device’s freedom of movement. As a result, the clipping direction no longer matters when the device is clipped to the first bolt. The locking system prevents the device from opening accidentally and makes it far easier to insert the rope and remove the device when lowering.
The design of the Ohm was underpinned with scientific research at the Institute of Mechanical Handling and Logistics (IFT), Stuttgart, Germany. It is an assisted braking resistor which is attached to the first bolt in the safety chain. In the event of a fall, the rope is pulled into the braking unit of the device and the fall is progressively arrested. This means the OHM does not brake the rope abruptly, but incrementally, so that the fall can be dynamically caught by the belayer. The OHM increases the friction in the safety chain, regardless of which belay device is used. This means the belayer has to apply considerably less manual force to the brake-side of the rope and is not suddenly pulled upwards or against the wall.
Specs
- Far lower forces are exerted on the belayer
- Lowering a heavier person in a controlled manner is far easier
- OHM is attached at the first bolt in the safety chain
- The device reduces the risk of a collision when falling on the first bolt
- Rope handling when belaying a lead climber not affected (no additional friction when paying out rope)
- “Makes the belayer 25 kg heavier”
- Minimum belayer weight: 40 kg
- For single ropes from 8.9–11.0 mm